The YAK
INTRODUCTION
Money brought by these visitors is not divided up equitably: they are often directed towards the same itineraries (Annapurna or Everest), they pass often by Katmandu agencies who take the biggest profits, and at last only the local ones who are able to invest in infrastructures (hotels and restaurants) can enrich themselves. The generated profits are therefore localized geographically but also socially! The environment suffers, let us quote as an example: the deforestation that intensifies itself, because of the intensive consumption induced by the meals and the hot showers of the thousands of trekkers that systematically flow in the same places. There’s also the waste coming from the industry (batteries, packings) that accumulate themselves more and more in these mountanous landscapes.
This gathering provokes a disturbing phenomenon for traditional values to the profit of the western models,not always adapted to rural life. Consequently, There are often upheavals of the social systems, and a rural exodus is more and more frequent... It is therefore important for us to guide tourism as a responsible, respectful, and ecological tool of development which responsibility returns largely to the western traveler.
The matter of this guide is to open and facilitate the access, and give keys to travel in these alternatives. It is written to give an practical assistance to one who would want to leave to visit off-road places, while giving tools to bring a positive impact for the inhabitants. This document does not claim itself to be exhaustive, and don’t hesitate to inform us of any modifications that you would like to see written in this document.
GENERALITIES
Topographic Maps
In order to be able to explore the mountain, it’s useful to own good maps! One can easily find in Thamel maps covering most of the mountainous areas of Nepal. Nevertheless, these are often approximatives, and they rarely propose scales under1: 80000. The altitudes and the names there are often false, as well as the paths. You can find in Katmandu topographic maps (1: 50000) made by the Finland agency of cartography. They have the advantage of respecting the level bends. Despite that, there’s still mistakes but they are anyway much more reliable. This allows more freedom on the itineraries to choose! and cherry on the cake, they are quite cheap (150 rupees).
You can find thoses maps only in one place : Maps of Nepal in New Baneswor (on the left if you come from Thamel, 150 meter before the Everest hotel)
Trekking permits and TIMS
to improve
Lodging and Food
In places full of tourists, one can find what is called "lodges". This are small guest houses managed by Nepalese people.
Despite that a part of Nepal is equiped with these infrastructure, you generally dont find lodges or any hotel type if you go out of the main trails. It is therefore necessary to sleep with the inhabitants! Locals are used to it, for the paths are followed by carriers, and these must find lodging as well. It’s usually the richest family who will welcome you. Well heard, this lodging type is not free! On can also find hostage in to the "passal", which are the shops of the village.
Furthermore, you’ll easily find something to eat there. The school can also be a great place, as you can use the classrooms. It is necessary to get up early to leave the place free for the pupils! Camping and Bivouac are possible as well. In the villages this will be generally in the schoolyard. In the mountain, avoid camping close to the water springs or river.
food = Dal Bat
Carriers and guides
One thinks often about trekking in Nepal as an organized trip followed by a troop of carriers, guides and cooks. Actually, the necessity of a such a logistic is doubtful, and although it’s useful for altitude expeditions or for trekking in uninhabited areas, it proves itself unadapted in several cases. We see too much groups of two or three tourists, followed by a troop of 15 carriers with stretched tables and chairs… in villages where you can find lodges to sit and eat for a few rupees! Let us be clear: engaging a staff is of course interesting, it gives work to people and one deepens contacts with Nepaleses that follow the group during the whole trek (and often after). But the things have to be thinked: It is sad, for example, to engage all the staff outside the visited region (which hapens often when one goes through an agency), for then the salaries do not return to the natives that nevertheless, take all negative consequences of the visit…It’s not recommended engaging about ten persons for a group of two tourists, in inhabited regions: with this kind of logistic, the most of the food is carried from Katmandu, which represents a lack to earn for the inhabitants. As no one can lodge such a group, the group camps in the schoolyard, which represents again a lack to earn for the families that would have been ready to welcome the tourists at their place. Furthermore, one misses to meet the hospitality experience… on the other hand, travel with a Nepalese guide, that offices as a translator, is strongly recommended in any case. It’s often difficult to find someone, in remote regions, who speaks English. This guide will often have to be hired outside the region but nevertheless, he will sometimes have to be seconded by a local who knows the paths (your guide of Katmandu can know English, he will not necessarily know the region as his pocket). While engaging a staff reflect this: is there villages around the itierary, or will you be able to find re-provisioning and lodging or do you have to hire carriers to manage the food and the stuff? (if yes, try to hire local carriers…) Is the way easy and clear or do you have to find a local guide? Does the trip implies sectins in autonomy of more than two days, or leading to more than 4000 m without lodges? If so, leaving with a staff becomes really useful, you can even say essential.
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : Generalities
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : Guidelines for the responsible trekker
Trekking in Nepal the guidebook : the Ganesh Himal
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